If you want a quick taste of how sophisticated the wine scene was in 1950s America, let’s grab a table at Mike’s Log Cabin in Albany, N.Y., and ask to see the wine list. Oops, there isn’t one. But wait—there’s the wine selection right on the menu, just below the baked Virginia ham. So you’ve got a choice of French imports—sauternes and Dubonnet—or something sweet like port. What’s that you say? You want an American wine? Well, there’s the Manischewitz. Ready to order?...